Portland, Victoria, Australia – a visit
The coast called. The name is PORTLAND. What are we doing this weekend? A leisurely, scenic day visiting the historic seaside City of PORTLAND was not in this itinerary. A 700 kilometre road trip from our home destination in north-east Victoria or 7.5 hours driving meant at least 4 nights accommodation required. Not enough time to explore everything this place had to offer. I was looking for cool sea breezes, cool changes and a quick look at what the local Real Estate would reveal. Could I be tempted to live here? First, the car had to be prepared. The AUDI TTRS would do the trip easily, however tyre pressures were checked, oil and water levels topped up (no need, perfect) and of course washed and shined as its status deserved.
A round trip of 1500 kms coming up. Why this massive trip via road? Well The coast is featured. Plus the 2 years of living in the north-east has taught us that the one thing we failed to research – was the weather. Being on the border of NSW, means higher latitudes, nearer the equator, meaning hotter temperatures. By hot I mean celsius in the high 30s, all day every day, until you are trapped inside, aircon blasting, along with ceiling fans constantly on. Can we possibly consider another move based on this one fact of extremely hot Summers. Summers I usually look forward to. We were told 40 is the norm at this time of year.
. Situated on Australia’s south west coast, the colony of Victoria began here on the shores. Portland Bay was sighted in 1800 by Lt James Grant who was charting the coastline from aboard The Lady Nelson. Portland became Victoria’s first permanent settlement in 1834. We didn’t quite catch a whale, not literally, however whalers and sealers were the first to set foot here.
After spending a night at The Holiday Inn, Geelong we were fuelled up to continue straight through to Portland. The new Holiday Inn is the first new Hotel to be built in Geelong for 50 years. The distance to Portland from here is 281 ks , a journey of another 3.5 hours. Geelong is the state of Victoria’s second largest City, with a population of approx 290,000. Home to the Geelong Cats AFL team. Once referred to as “Sleepy Hollow”, Geelong is now on the rise. Situated on the shores of Corio Bay, with a rich history of wool, showcased at the National Wool Museum, Ford car manufacturing, now ceased, fast Clipper ships and ship wrecks. People watch at Geelongs Eastern Beach or take a ride on the 1892 Carousel, meticulously restored. We like Geelong!
We would go into the past, near my childhood home and towns associated with my birthplace and schooling. There was no time to make those off road detours this time around. I was assaulted with various memories as we passed road signs and the famous “stony rises “, those familiar volcanic rock fences, like part demolished Roman ruins lining the way into towns such as Colac. Were they built by convicts or free settlers?
Was it really so long ago that I sat up front with Dad, watching the old Chev petrol gauge, looking forward to holiday adventures. It was my job to inform on the level of fuel available and when we should top up, an important activity I took very seriously. In fact I still do as a passenger, to the annoyance of the driver e.g me eyeing the fuel gauge which is sitting on half “don’t you need to fill up soon, you’re leaving it a bit low.” As a kid I rode in front due to car sickness which fortunately I appear to have outgrown. This is important as we planned to return home via The Great Ocean Road, through the surf coast, which involves tight turns, winding roads, tree fern lined forests and sheer cliffs to the sea.
My initial impression of reaching Portland? in one word? Remote.
Perhaps the long drive, coupled with fatigue and being out of the comfort zone meant we were basically just tired. There was no WOW factor. We were just relieved to reach our accommodation for the next 2 nights. Where was the sandy beach? The local shops? Was that the sound of waves breaking – or my ears ringing from tyres humming along the long roads?. We were situated on the entire ground floor of SEASCAPE ACCOMMODATION with views to the water. Was that the sound of waves breaking or the water feature outside in the shape of a mermaid?
On crossing the road we were met with sheer, wild cliffs, dropping to an torturous shore. Where was the beach, you know the sandy beach? The car would be required to discover where everything was. No dolphins or whales could I spot but the room or house, was ideal. Luxurious and spacious, light filled with well provided kitchen tools, much more than you get in a Motel,modern bathroom/ en suite, comfy lounge area with flat screen tv, tea/coffee, in fact everything an entire large family could ask for, including a roomy outdoor deck. The sheer cliffs just a walk across the road. The only difference noticed is pump-style liquid soaps/shampoos etc in bathrooms, no more cute little solid bars or tiny liquid shampoo/conditioners. A result of the fear of germs era of the last few years. They were handy to travel with – after you took them! .
After a short car ride to the local Super IGA for supplies (huge variety) and a chat with a local who let me into her line, we felt more settled and set to explore some of the sights.
PORTLAND. The main shopping street. The town centre is dominated by the port. Officially opened in 1960, after 8 years of construction. There was no Cruise ship berthed this day. Did I say CRUISE SHIP? I had seen them in photos promoting the City. Tourism reaches here! Luckily there was no ship out there, ferrying eager visitors to the shore to be met by a Professional Tour Guide to show them the sights! I would quickly go into my spiel about here. I am what is referred to as a ” bus mans holiday.”
The Portland Harbour Trust is Victoria’s only naturally deep water port. We noticed a huge wood chipping facility visible beyond the strip. Sustainable hardwood exported from here to the world. Those giant trucks seen tipping sawdust, on a 60 degree angle, teetering on the brink and amazing to watch. Information passed on by a friendly local who noticed us watching. The port handles livestock, grain, smelter products (there is an aluminium smelter here) and wind turbines. Those towering triffid-like monsters loom over the landscape, almost within touching distance, as we discovered, coming across them later on a short drive to the lighthouse.
I entered a hairdresser in the street, after peering through his window at interesting products displayed. Friendly with advice and “I only accept cash.” he said. So I purchased. I also wandered into a frock shop on the strip. A blue highly patterned maxi-dress ended up in a paper bag with my name on it. A steal at $30.
A lady serving in the local Opportunity shop passed on some humorous anecdotes. “This place (the city) is crap. The shops are crap, nothing has changed in years and I’ve lived here since the age of 15.” she imparted with a grin. “I’m interested in seeing if I want to live here”? I said. “Would I like it here”? ” “No”, she quipped straight faced. ” How do you know? ” I can tell.” So much for that. A customer added that you don’t have to go anywhere. Everything is here. Warrnambool, the next big City is one hours drive away. Yet another cafe owner told me “I couldn’t live anywhere else.” I still wasn’t getting a WOW! There is a medical facility/Hospital for acute care I noticed. Medical facilities are now on the list of importance! The next major Hospital is Warrnambool, a mere 97 kms. As far as weather goes, the lady of the quips stated, ” we don’t get Summer here and Winters are cold.” That sounds good to me. The cold instead of the heat.
Basically there was no time to find other touristy places to visit. For example : a cable tram runs along tracks, 8 kms of coastal routes, linking various attractions. Wasn’t available that day. Didn’t find the Vintage Car Museum , the Museum and Arts, Botanic Gardens est.1857, with assistance from Melbourne Botanic curator Von Mueller. Missed the roses and the lavender farm turn-off. The mystical Enchanted Forest looked worthwhile, “turn off here”‘ I said too late plus the dirt track put us off. We continued to the Cape Nelson Lighthouse. Now this was something to see!
\CAPE NELSON LIGHTHOUSE is 10 minutes from Portland. Unfortunately the coastal scenery changed to bush , populated by monstrous Triffid-like War of the Worlds characters, seemingly right at the roadside, turning, endlessly turning. Wind turbines have infiltrated this wild coastline. Some stood silent and unmoving. They certainly grab ones attention, not in a good way as the country plummets towards a Dystopian world order, promoting a pointless Net-Zero fanaticism with alternative energy. Reliant on wind and sunshine. Certainly a talking point. There are photos surfacing of wind turbines breaking to pieces or catching fire and as we didn’t want to be so close, it was time to move on, the winding road was about to peak.
IS THAT A LIGHTHOUSE I SEE?
CAPE NELSON LIGHTHOUSE With spectacular Southern Ocean views, it stands 32 metres tall and dates from 1883. There have been many upgrades, to bring it up to standards of operational technology. What a beacon of safety it must have been to sailors struggling to stay afloat along the dangerous and rocky shores of this part of the Australian coast. There are various walking tracks and a Lighthouse tour is available. Visitors can even stay here in what was once the Lighthouse keepers cottage. In isolation. This spot reeks of atmosphere. A time gone by. What stories this whole area could tell.
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ISABELLA’S CAFE. When you hear the sound of crockery or coffee cups clinking in the background, even though the place looks deserted, then you are drawn inside. There is a friendly serving lady – I feel the word “wench, serving wench appear in my mind, a PIRATES OF THE CARRIBEAN scene imprints itself as I take in the surroundings. This room was perhaps once part of the station, the walls showing their untouched age, paint peeling off. That image of the Lighthouse seen through the mottled glass evokes more images of lost times. Chocolate brownies, a packet of choc chip cookies wrapped in cellophane, to take away and of course a dose of caffeine jolt me back to the present. A few other travellers have happened upon this little cafe. When we take our leave to trudge back to the car, I am inundated by flying insects – of the biting kind. MARCH FLIES they said. The cafe lady (or wench!) told us she is attacked every time she goes outside to empty the rubbish into the bins. I can well believe it. Fighting my way through the swarm, car door slammed, no, one got in!
THE PORTLAND SMELTER. Aside from the wood chip facility we saw across from the shopping strip, Portland also is home to Australias largest aluminium producer, operating every day since 1983. Injecting over $$100 mill into the region every year, ALCOA mines bauxite from Western Australia, which produces aluminium. 340,000 tonnes per year. 100% is exported to Asia.
REAL ESTATE. Could I live here.?
Apart from the obvious tourist attractions, the biggest smelter in the country, the wild coastline, the wood chipping, a Lavender farm and quite a few attractions we simply didn’t have the time for, there was the subject of Real Estate. How much does it cost to house oneself? Having done a small amount of research, as is my way, properties appear to be reasonably affordable. Harking back to the lady who used the word CRAP a lot. ” you can find a house, but they will be a dump.” It is like getting a bucket of cold sea water chucked over you! There was one street with a few For Sale signs. We wondered why? Was it the steep hill? Gully more like. There was one possible at the other end which looked ok. Price going up as we gazed upon it.. You couldn’t walk to the town easily. The word “SHACK” stood out. I pondered these homes, sitting on dead lawns, the odd car parked on said lawn. Nope. Couldn’t consider living there. No WOW factor. None at all. Not there. However, there was a house or two that caught our eye. Wouldn’t describe them as a shack. That word is a little unfortunate. A cottage, a house on huge farmland, quite cheap – but remote.
I have to mention the lack of sandy beaches. I may be remiss in this assumption. One must never assume without proof. Obviously there are beaches as this is on the coast. We just didn’t see them. The accessible public beaches. Except for the main shopping precinct. Across the park. Or some houses for sale in the next county/region. There are country towns nearby but the description REMOTE keeps popping up.
FINAL WORDS. PORTLAND is very attractive. I would have to return to gain a greater feel for the place. Looking at overseas properties is also attractive. If family is taken into account, then it is very difficult to consider another move. Should I?
